This week we got to experience the highs and lows of travelling first hand, with some of the best and worst moments of the trip thus far. This is that tale.
We arrived in the small mountain town of Daramshala after a cramped 10 hour bus ride from Manali on windy mountain roads and immediately set out preparing our next trek. The goal was to head up to Kareri Lake and return to McLeod Ganj over the course of 5 days. Determined to improve our alpine culinary experience, we loaded up our bags with kilos of lentils, potatoes, onions, peppers and enough cookies and crackers to host a smashing tea party. As they say, an army runs on its stomach. With our 50 lbs bags in hand, we started off. The trail had us meandering through pine forests and remote Hindu villages before shifting to lush jungle foliage and eventually alpine meadows as we slowly ascended the steep hillsides towards Kareri Lake.
Camp 1 in a farmer's field by Kareri village
Our campsite on the second night was as picturesque as they come. A soft patch of flat ground right next to a glacier fed stream nestled in a steep valley below the lake. The sun beamed down on us, the cool water beckoned and cows grazed uncomfortably close to the tent. As we settled down to enjoy some post-dinner lemon honey ginger tea on the flat rocks by the stream, a local shepherd came by looking for a few of his goats. We offered him tea and cookies, and he gladly accepted our offer. He spoke no English, and us no Hindi so well timed smiles and hand gestures proved key. He thanked us and continued on his way, the goats still nowhere to be seen.
Kareri Lake from the ridge
Later that evening, in the true spirit of camping, we attempted to build a fire. A true struggle due to the severe afternoon rainstorm which had drenched nearly every piece of kindling we found. Our pitiful wood supply slowly ran out as we desperately tried to fan the embers and get the larger pieces to catch, to no avail. As hope for our fire slowly faded, two lights appeared on the trail, moving towards us. As the got closer, we recognized the shepherd from earlier and one of his friends. They brought a pot filled with fresh goats milk for us and quickly took over the fire building process. In a matter of minutes, they had constructed a roaring fire from the feeble embers we had initially. Leave it to the experts to do it right. They both had dark, leathery skin typical of people who work outdoors, and could have been as young as 35 or as old as 60. The older man jokingly mocked our fire building skills, miming that he could see our pitiful attempt from his hut and decided to intervene. All said in a mixture of Hindi and hand gestures of course. Both men exhibited an intense curiosity at the headlamps we had on and at Ryan's GoPro. It's not everyday three crazy goras wander into their neck of the woods. We heated up the fresh goats milk, added some tea leaves, and watched the stars come out as we sat around the fire with the two shepherds. Smiles spread to the faces of all as we savoured the magical moment, and sipped the delicious gift of goats milk. It was an indescribable high point on the journey so far.
Little did we know how far we'd come crashing down some 24 hours later.
In hindsight, drinking raw goat's milk after a lengthy hiatus from lactose may not have been the best decision. But when in India.
The gastrointestinal blitzkrieg began late afternoon the next day and continued unrelenting throughout the night. Shock and Awe was the unfortunate tactic employed by the enemy, with devastating results. Needless to say, everyone slept poorly that evening. A rapid return to civilization was required by all. A trying day lay ahead, as lack of food, dehydration, fatigue and exhaustion took their toll during the 20 km slog back down to the valley floor. By some miracle we were able to catch a bus from the town of Gheera and avoid what would have been a debilitating climb back up to McLeod Ganj. The next 24 hours were filled with 20 hours of sleep and 4 hours of discussing leg pains, bowel movement comparison or thinking about sleep. Two days later and still no one is 100%, but never has a flushing toilet been more appreciated.
As we were sitting around the campfire on that incredible evening, Ryan stated that "this makes every crappy moment worth it". It's to experience moments like the one around the fire that we accept to put ourselves through uncomfortable situations and moments. Like 18 hour bus rides. It's important to recognize when you're living a high and to respect the fact that the lows are part of it too. India is in many ways a roller coaster ride, and I look forward to whatever lies around the next bend. Be it good or bad. Such is India.
Paul gets in touch with his wild side
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